24 May 2023
Nostalgia, faith, and future
These are the words that define Albus Lumen’s Resort 2024 collection, Phase II, which ushers in a new era for the label founded nine years ago by Marina Afonina.
Phase II harnesses elements of Albus Lumen’s past – think its signature wools and crocheted pieces, which have evolved with the brand while remaining a staple – and brings them into the future, through different cuts and shapes made for all aspects of life. Retaining the intricate craftsmanship of past collections, Phase 2 broadens them to different categories, creating new elegance through daywear, suiting, eveningwear and eventually, bridal.
To lay the groundwork for a forever wardrobe, Phase II’s tonal colour palette gleans inspiration from nature, as well as Afonina’s longest love: the ocean. Albus Lumen’s newest knits, made in partnership with the Woolmark Company, are crafted in both diaphanous and structured forms, in colours informed by the solace Afonina finds in nature and aquatic expanses. Pieces like cropped blazers, made with sea life-adorned quilting, are made to carry from day into the night.
Phase II is also Albus Lumen’s second unisex collection. Tailored garments seen in the range’s menswear are sleek while embracing the idiosyncrasies of nature; take the black-and-white pearls that add elegance to a linen coat, or buttons shaped as natural pebbles. No two pieces are the same, but all are unified by sophisticated simplicity.
The collection’s final moments see Albus Lumen’s return to wedding attire, three years after a one-off capsule. Silk gowns spangled with lucent pearls and soft quilted mini dresses are for those balancing a respect of craftsmanship and a desire for modernity. Elsewhere, layered chiffon provides a modern twist on matrimonial tradition, for future-facing brides looking to expand out of conventionality, and other dresses for occasion dressing.
Reflecting the label’s embrace of ease, each wedding look is made with free movement in mind and takes visual cues from nature’s synergistic beauty. The accompanying Piaget jewellery adds shimmer; one could imagine it as a glint of light off the sea at sunrise.
Returning to physically showing at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week for the first time in four years, Albus Lumen’s vision considers nostalgia of years gone by, with a faith in enduring luxury, and an eye on the waters ahead. A new phase begins now.
