
31 Jan 2025
Kim Jones once again proves his mastery of reinvention with Dior Men Winter 2025-2026, a collection that seamlessly bridges the past and the present while redefining the future of menswear. Drawing from Christian Dior’s Ligne H collection of Autumn-Winter 1954-55, Jones explores metamorphosis—of silhouettes, gender codes, and time itself—crafting a narrative where tradition and modernity coalesce with cinematic grandeur.
From the moment the first look graced the runway, it was clear that this season would be an exploration of transformation. A coat that morphs into a skirt, robes and opera coats cinched to perfection, and a play of volume that moves effortlessly from structured to fluid all speak to the evolution of menswear. The influence of haute couture is unmistakable, particularly in the draping, the noble fabrics, and the extraordinary attention to detail. Silks and satins dominate the collection, their opulence balanced by a controlled rigor that ensures every piece feels monumental yet strikingly wearable.
A sense of duality pervades, not just in the shapes but also in the materials and accessories. Leather goods walk the fine line between structure and suppleness—soft shearling Dior Roller bags contrast with the meticulously crafted Dior Normandie totes in the finest leather. Footwear takes an experimental turn, blending masculine savoir-faire with feminine couture codes. Classic men’s dress shoes and highly polished Dior Palmarès boots are adorned with knotted satin toe caps, a nod to the couture bow motif woven throughout the collection. Meanwhile, hybrid embroidered sneakers reinterpret archival Dior shoe embellishments from 1961, blending extravagance with artisanal craftsmanship.
Perhaps the most striking element is the embroidery, which draws from Christian Dior’s Spring-Summer 1948 haute couture Pondichéry look. Recreated on the show’s final pink robe and subtly echoed in jewelry and embellishments, the intricate detailing transforms archetypal menswear elements like pinstripes and herringbone into something far more ornate. Even the simplest embellishment—a scattering of raindrop-like beads—is executed with such precision that it becomes a technical marvel.
Jones’ vision for this collection extends beyond garments; it is an exploration of history, a dialogue between masculine and feminine, and a meditation on fashion’s ability to shift and redefine itself. Dior Men Winter 2025-2026 is not just a collection—it is an experience, a masterclass in how luxury menswear can be at once classic and radical, restrained and extravagant.