25 Feb 2024
“Seek a small subversive gesture. View things from a perspective different from what is presumed most appropriate, not following the rules.
This is my way of dreaming, without hurry, visualizing and stratifying aspirations as if they were the bricks of a house. In my fashion as in my dreams, the exercise is the same. Search within the folds for a void that wants to be filled. Look at the detail very closely, before feeling free to back away in pursuit of a broader perspective. Capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected.
My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.” - Sabato.
Making a coat is an act of craftsmanship, symbolic of a culture of exceptional technique. It begins with the construction, proceeding with the lining and the interior, moving between how the fabric falls, how it moves when it is worn, how its color changes if the wool is mixed with more modern fibers. Every act represents a meticulous journey in which each gesture can change the final result. The Fall Winter 2024 collection is an obsessive repetition of that journey, a staging of small subversive acts with regards to the rules of ready-to-wear.
The main coat, in fabric and with a masculine silhouette, has a covered placket, and hidden buttoning on the back, which transforms it into an embrace. The same can be found on bombers, peacoats, and leather jackets.
Lace, cut and reconstructed, is embellished with embroideries, other laces, or velvets. Shifts are a combination of overlapping layers, held together by laces. Jacquard prints depict a geometric heron, recognizable only up close. Knitwear is enriched by transparent or slightly off-tone sequins or with a crystal fringe that recreates a ribbed motif. Twin sets aren’t twin sets, but distinctive pieces. The colors - the ugly ones, the ones of the heart, and the wrong ones, together.
A new top handle bag with a flat and perforated logo that reveals what lies beneath, crafted in nappa with a naturally silky feel and paired with a layer that renders it light and puffy, called GG Milano. And then, a half-moon silhouette inspired by the equestrian motifs found in the Gucci Archive, infused with a contemporary spirit, is also decorated with a new logo. A clutch embellished and held together with a gold-toned metal bar that replicates the iconic bamboo. Finally, a Bamboo bucket bag with a broad and embracing silhouette.
Horse-riding boots, the symbol par excellence of the connection between Gucci and the world of equestrianism, whose classic silhouette features an elongated metal Horsebit. Also in a unique over-the-knee version. The Horsebit loafers, which evolve in a platform sandal encapsulated by refined craftsmanship.
An archival necklace in galvanized gold and with a studded motif is woven with a ribbon in the shade of the garment closest to the neck. Cat-eye acetate sunglasses follow the same palette.
